The dress and cloak cutter by Hecklinger Charles

Author:Hecklinger, Charles. [from old catalog]
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
Tags: Tailoring (Women's) [from old catalog]
Publisher: Burlington, Vt.
Published: 1881-03-25T05:00:00+00:00

SHORT SACK JACKET.

Fig. 19.

In cutting sacks, the first consideration is a good balance, and in order to attain this, there is nor never can be a belter guide than the body-pattern to follow. In using this, if it be good, we retain all its good points, and get the same certainty of fit as we would in case of a dress-waist.

We take, for instance, the pattern of the back, lay it on a straight line like fig. 18, so that the upper corner at the neck rests on the line at 0. and the lower part be, for regular built, i?, inch away from the line as shown at C-

Now trace all along the pattern, following closely the edges. Then trom 0 at neck, measure down tlie length desired, and from i to 2 inches above C begin to curve gradually out toward the straight line—this should be a continuous curve.

The style of these jackets being close, and for giving a narrower eiTect. it is well not to make the back too wide ; for this reason make die bottom from B to E 6 inches. From the point at waist i, draw curved line to E.

If the garment is intended to be heav)' and used as an over-garment, certain additions are required at top. on back, on shoulder and at sleeve, \ inch. From F commence adding with ] inch, increasing it till at 0 we add i inch. From D curve the line to E.

Draw a line, and place the s'de-body against it, with point H resting on it, and the waist being i inch from B. (See fig. 20.) In cases where the hips are very large, the the distance from B is i^ inch.

Now trace the side-body, and from D at waist, measure the length as produced by the back, then curve the side-line tVom 0 to A-

Having got the right length, fix a point in the centre between D and i at waist, and from it as pivot sweep from A to N- From i to N draw a straight line, then curve over it considerably at hips, in order to have room for them.

Make the bottom of side-body as wide as the back.

When the back is cut i inch from D at waist, and it is intended as an outside garment, it is always well to take a little of the width of the side, therefore then go in at D on the side-body i inch, and then curve the side line.

The front (fig 21,) is drawn in the following wa}'. Draw a straight line, like from 0 to E. Lay the front pattern against it, when intended for a thin garment , but for a heavy one, let it be | of an inch from it at breast, and i inch at waist.

Download

Copyright Disclaimer:
This site does not store any files on its server. We only index and link to content provided by other sites. Please contact the content providers to delete copyright contents if any and email us, we'll remove relevant links or contents immediately.